Have you ever visited a place where you feel as if you were meant to be there? Like you instantly become overtaken with a feeling of euphoria the minute you arrive? The minute I stepped off of the boat and arrived at the bustling port of Capri, it was as if I belonged here. Capri is where I was meant to be, I was home! Capri was part of our honeymoon that included Capri, Rome, and Paris.
I feel like I need to put a disclaimer with this post. This is by no means a post that encompasses all of the things the Island of Capri has to offer, but a moment for me to reflect on one of my most adored places and dream of the day that I will return.
If you are reading this, then I urge you, schedule more than 24 hours in Capri. I definitely wish that we would have!
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Getting to Capri
We were using Rome as our home base for our honeymoon in Italy. Marty knows me well and knew that I would be needing some breaks from the big city, so he made sure to schedule several excursion days away from Rome.
We boarded a high-speed train from Rome to Naples early one morning and we were off. Upon arriving in Naples, we chose to walk to the ferry station so that we could see a little of the city of Naples. Luckily, Marty and I arrived at the ferry station about 10 minutes before the next boat to Capri was set to depart. Boarding the boat, Marty found us some seats on the left side of the ferry (sorry, I don’t know the nautical term). We had a great view of Mt. Vesuvius and the Amalfi Coast during our journey to Capri. The ocean breeze blowing in my face and the smell of the salty air was immediately relaxing.
After being on the ferry for about 40 minutes, an even more incredible view came into sight. Beautiful jagged cliffs seemed to be growing out of the sea, and I wondered to myself if this was the island. The closer we got to land, the more colorful the water became. The colors of the water suddenly reminded me of a peacock, changing from a deep turquoise to a beautiful emerald green and then a captivating teal. Following the water line up, we saw boats anchored just off shore that continued up onto the sandy beach, and Italian houses dotting the hillside for as far as we could see. This was quintessential Capri, and I was mesmerized.
Where to Stay in Capri
We got off the boat and approached a small covered area to wait for our bus to Anacapri. Anacapri is the quieter little sister to the bigger town of Capri and seemed like the perfect escape for Marty and I. After waiting a few minutes, we boarded the bus to Anacapri. As the bus wound up and around the hillside, I took in all the sights. We peered into the backyards filled with bougainvillea and lemon trees, watched the children playing with their dogs in the sun, and smiled at the old men sitting outside seemingly without a care in the world. I found myself falling in love with Capri, and vowed to savor every sweet minute of this experience.
We chose to stay in a bed and breakfast for this leg of our journey and did not disappoint. We hopped off the bus and walked down a small pedestrian street to find our residence for the evening. Marty and I were so pleased when we approached the whitewashed villa. The grounds of Il Sogno were immaculate, and Claudio and Serenalla, our hosts, greeted us warmly upon arrival. Claudio assisted us in making plans for our short stay in Capri. Our room at Il Sogno was bright and cheerful, and the beautiful tile in the bathroom screamed Italy to me. I wanted to move into this house, especially if Serenalla would cook breakfast for me every day!
Things to Do in Capri
After checking into Il Sogno, and getting back out, Marty and I stumbled across a small cafe, Caffe Michelangelo. I have to be honest; Caffe Michelangelo had a huge batch of amazing looking sangria sitting at the hostess station that was beckoning me in. What can I say? I’m a sucker for good sangria. We sat outside people watching, drinking sangria, and eating pasta for hours.
Full and happy, we found our way over to the chair lifts that ascend Mount Solaro. Paying 11 Euros for a round trip ride, we hopped on our individual chairs and proceeded up the mountain. We passed several nuns coming down the mountain and I couldn’t help but giggle to myself saying, “The Flying Nun!” (a reference to an old t.v. show for my younger readers). The ride took about 12 minutes, so I just sat back and enjoyed the incredible views.
Arriving at the summit, I clumsily stepped off of the chairlift and waited for Marty. I was pleased to see the boyish grin on his face as he arrived to greet me. We then laughed as we said to each other, “did you see the flying nuns?” Man, we are dorks!
After leaving the platform of the chairlift, we found ourselves breathless. In the words of my loving husband, this is the most amazing view I have ever seen in my life! We just stood there in awe, taking it all in. Looking down on the Faraglioni rock formation and the town of Capri, we felt as though we were in a dream.
After snapping endless pictures, we made our way to the cafe located at the top of the mountain, La Canzone del Cielo. We sat on their rocking chairs with a drink and absorbed the view for a little while longer.
Shopping in Capri
After descending Mount Solaro, I somehow convinced Marty to do some shopping with me. We wandered the town square, admiring the handmade sandals and trying free samples of Limoncello. You find yourself being immersed in the culture as you wander pedestrian lanes filled with artisan workshops and beautiful whitewashed buildings draped in tropical vegetation.
During this evening stroll, the town was starting to wind down, so Marty and I made our way to the Phoenician Steps. The Phoenician steps were constructed by Ancient Greeks between 6th and 7th century B.C. as a way to connect the town of Capri to Anacapri. We definitely were not up to tackling the 921 steps on this journey, so we used this opportunity to enjoy the view and take some great pictures.
With the evening upon us, we found our way onto Via Giuseppe Orlandi and stumbled across Casa Rossa. You will know Casa Rossa when you see it. This red house stands out among the other whitewashed houses and demands your attention. Until 1899, Casa Rossa was the home of American Coronel, John MacKowen, but is now a museum. Casa Rossa had already closed for the day, so we didn’t go inside, but I will check it out on our next trip.
Participate in the Passeggiata
As the sun was setting, Marty and I became immersed in the nightly passeggiata, the evening promenade. It was as if the setting sun beckoned people out of their houses and into the charming pedestrian lanes. We observed families dressed to the nines filling the piazzas, while small crowds of people gathered to see and be seen. Young people laughed, kissed cheeks, and shared in the latest gossip. Marty and I found ourselves walking slowly, hand in hand, pretending for a few minutes that we were Italian, and this was our nightly tradition as well.
Feeling relaxed, yet tired, we grabbed an authentic Neapolitan pizza from a shop that Claudio recommended and slowly made our way back toward our bed and breakfast.
Dreams of Returning to Capri
While I sit here and write this post, I find myself overwhelmed with emotion. I am smiling through tears as I type. The tears are joyful memories of a time that I will never forget and of a place that stole my heart. One day I will return to Capri, and when I do, I may never leave.
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